Anything the customer prefers. Our niche is millwork made from reclaimed lumber. Our storage yard has 100s of thousand of board feet of lumber in inventory available to pull from, and we will source whatever we need through a broad network if we don't have it in stock. The most common locally available material for us are Northwest softwoods (i.e. pine and fir) salvaged from old buildings. Oak is fairly affordable and commonly available, too. Remember that we are a custom shop, so that means we will find the material that suits the customer. If a customer doesn't want us to reclaimed material, of course we are a full service custom shop that can use any material available.
Sure. We like to keep memories. If for nostalgia reasons you want something special built out of Grandpa's barn, then let's design something around it. Please keep in mind the yield on reclaimed lumber is extremely low. It will take a minimum of twice as much wood as you expect to complete a project. The quality of the wood greatly effects the results and amount of raw material required to make your project. As an average rule of thumb, a door built entirely from barn lumber might need 75 - 100 board feet of raw material before machining to assemble the door. It is especially important to have good boards slightly longer than the height of the door.
All of our material is true recycled reclaimed content. It is only real natural lumber and NO FAUX or FAKE finishes! All colors and textures in the blends of accent wall and ceiling interior siding have natural contrast and vary from board to board and batch to batch. The sources of our raw material may be corral boards, barn rafters and siding, crib wood from grain elevators, weathered fence boards, salvaged timbers from agriculture warehouses, or rough-cut lumber from old sawmills.
Yes. The door is built with no hollow cavities. The advantage with our doors is the engineered frame built with thick veneers over a stave core. The cores are built with the same material as the faces. In simple terms it is a bunch of laminations that you cannot see from the face of the door. The more laminations one has the stronger and more stable it becomes. See our glossary page for a better understanding of this when you look at the cross sections.
A stile and rail door is built with a rigid frame and floating panel. This allows the door to maintain a consistent width and flatness even if the wood moves due to season and environment changes. The entire door can be built from recycled content and all with NAUF glues. All of these doors are fully covered by our warranty. Unlimited options abound for panel design, applied moldings and profiles.
The flush plank doors can give a different look or feel to a project. They basically look like boards edge glued together in one flat consistent plane. There is less decoration, and it is a simpler design. Our flush plank doors can be built with a foam core over the majority of the surface area which allows us to build a lighter or better insulated door. These doors never have recycled content in their core. Typically the most that they will be reclaimed material is about 33% content overall, but everything that shows on the face or edges is matching reclaimed material. The core is usually a combination of engineered materials. Be sure to ask the source, some of these materials we cannot get as a NAUF product. Our warranty excludes coverage on warping in this style of door as is the industry standard. Generally these doors cost slightly less than a comparably sized stile and rail door. If we do not use a foam core product, these doors tend to be heavier than normal. Since there is no panel or rail system, one has more flexibility to apply strap hinges or other decoration anywhere on the surface of the door.
In a reclaimed product the engineered flooring really shines. Since the nature of reclaimed material is rustic with splits, various height, warps and so forth by doing an engineered product we can eliminate those issues. We match the texture and color that you want in the floor but you don't have to put up with the inherent problems that come with installing and living with a reclaimed wood floor. Due to our precise sanding during the lamination process and after, pieces are more consistent in height, more uniform in texture, fit together tighter, no waste, holes and cracks already filled, and no sanding necessary after install unless you want to do a light screen or buff. Engineered is also absolutely essential if installing over radiant heat, concrete, below grade, and wide planks over 6" are more stable. We recommend gluing with floor mastic and nailing our engineered down so it won't have squeaks like some solid wood floors can have. Our specialty is the unusual such as super wide width plank floor that is 12"+ in width; our belief is that it is just not safe to do that with a solid wood floor. Some of our wider width products are actually less expensive than if ordered in a narrower width.
We personally do not care for prefinished flooring due to installation problems associated with it, so our product requires site applied finish. This means that your floor finish if site applied will be easier to sand and refinish than a prefinished floor. Also you do not have to deal with that micro bevel groove between each board that tends to fill up with dust and crumbs.
Engineered flooring is more expensive. Our product has a thicker wear layer (6mm) and is thicker overall (18mm) than the industry standard. This means that is equal in thickness to a solid wood product and can be sanded/ refinished just as many or more times than comparable solid wood floors. We use an exterior grade, FSC pure, 9 layer, NAUF Carb 2 compliant plywood along with a type II water resistant crosslink PVA Glue. What this means to you is our flooring has no odors, tough, water resistant, and qualifies for a multitude of Green building programs such as LEED with the USGBC. Due to all of the advantages, durability, ease of install, and ease of finishing/sanding, we believe the difference in price over a solid product is worth it. If you are comparing the two different products we will be frank with you and tell you whether it is worth the extra money for your application.
"mostly smooth" is sanded almost all the way smooth, very little variation in height between boards, equal quality, more likely to come from the inside of boards or beams rather than the outside textured face, will have less character, still looks reclaimed, will have nail holes to stain but no weathering or deep saw marks, easier to clean, easier to fully sand and refinish, more affordable.
"skip sanded" always come from the outside dirty face of boards, some circle sawn or weathering remains, slightly more variation in height between pieces of flooring (could have height difference of up to a 1/16”), more rustic, takes longer and is more expensive to manufacture, most people want this textured look.
We take pride in our product and want to make sure that it is good value, unique, and built to last. We won’t degrade a competitor’s product, but it is very difficult to compare our product in an apples to apples scenario.
Compare to a standard wood door like a knotty alder or pine sold at lumberyards. Our minimum thickness is 1 ¾” vs. 1 3/8”. We’re made in America by us; you are dealing directly with the manufacturer (no middleman). Our thicker veneers are part of our laminating process to make reclaimed lumber lay perfectly flat over a solid wood stave core. Our doors will accept stain better and you won’t sand through our thicker veneers. If you ding, dent, or chip our doors it is reclaimed lumber throughout and not a composite underneath; our doors stand up to abuse better. We always are more expensive than a mass produced doors, but these are not a comparable comparison.
Our doors are not for everybody. Our customers typically purchase from us for the following reasons:
environmentally conscious such as building a LEED project and using the recycled content aspect of our productslooking for the utmost in quality and durabilitytimeless beauty that comes from sustainable natural materialsunique and something different than the mass produced building materialscustomized to your exact specificationswe provide sensible value by selling direct to the customer
We try to be affordable when compared to other custom shops. It is important, too, to ask a lot of questions about how the doors are made when you start shopping.
We are a small company focused on quality and hiring local rural labor. We use material that otherwise would have gone to a landfill.
Since our doors are built from reclaimed lumber they can contribute to your recycled content points for LEED certified construction.
We believe that if one builds with a quality product made from natural materials it is a more sustainable option. Well made products will last longer and need less replacements. Natural material and organic design lends itself to a timeless essence. Styles change, but if one will notice with architecture buildings built with heavy duty stone and wood seem to always be in style.
Besides using recycled content for materials we also use water based PVA glue in the door construction. The doors are sent out without a stain or finish on them so you can select your own low VOC finish.
If necessary, we can prehang. Our primary focus is to be a wholesale direct slab door manufacturer. If you don’t have the means to prehang the door slabs yourself, we will offer options. Where we excel in prehanging doors is a custom option we offer for extremely heavy doors. We have designed a system with a steel reinforced frame and functioning strap hinges that is indestructible.
If it is part of the pre hung for swing doors, yes. We do not supply door knobs or entry handle sets.
We are becoming the best source on the internet for barn door hardware. Our track systems have unique features that really make a difference for ease of use and install. Start by checking our online store for low profile sliding door hardware, flat track barn door kits, privacy locks, and pull handles. All hardware you see in our store is ready-to-ship! A major component of our business is building sliding door slabs to go with barn door hardware.
The powder coated colors are a durable baked on finish. The picture of the actual components you will receive changes in the product listing when you select the color.
The raw unfinished steel is not a specific color and it does not have a color or sealer coat added over the raw steel. The steel is not cleaned, sanded, or sandblasted. There may be blemishes, rust, oil residue, mill scale, discoloration or other variation on the surface of the steel. The steel parts in the kit may not match in color. Silver zinc bolts come with the unfinished steel. Use the unfinished color option to save on cost, rust the steel, or do your own color later.
You need an 1 7/8" space over the top of the door to fit the complete assembly. This give enough clearance for the wheels to spin freely. This space is over the door itself and not the height above the opening. If one allows for 1/2" gap to fit the floor guide under the door then as long as the door is 2 3/8" shorter in height than the distance from floor to ceiling everything will fit fine.
Not necessarily, but it is highly recommended and required per our instructions. The door rolls smoother on the track when it is secured at the bottom. The floor guide forces the door to hang plumb, and it keeps it from banging into the wall or swinging. Note question below also.
Not at this time. We feel that they are not as secure as the floor mount installation. If you do not want to drill into your floors such as through tile to attach the guide an alternate option is to glue or epoxy. Also one can mount a bumper such as smooth block of wood or plastic to floorboards to keep the back side of door hanging plumb and not banging into wall, but this solution does not prevent the door from swinging away from the wall.
Usually the door should overlap the opening by a minimum of 1" on all three sides. The track length should be twice the width of the door. For example use a 36" wide door on a 33" wide opening with a 6' long track and have 37 1/2" room past the edge of the opening to fit the track and fully open the door. Our low profile mini v track hardware kit only take 1 7/8" room to fit over the top of your door plus 1/2" under door for floor guide; the tallest your door can be then is the height from floor to ceiling minus 2 3/8". Our flat track barn door hardware requires 4 1/2" of clearance.
This answer is for a pair of by-parting barn doors sharing a single track where they each stop in the middle and one opens to the left and the other to the right. If your total required track length is more than 8' generally it is just recommended to order two complete kits and treat it as two seperate doors that happen to stop at the same point in the middle of the opening. If doing smaller doors like two that are 24" wide each on a single 8' track then order the one 8' track hardware kit and in the middle of the product page in the extras section add one of the options in the matching color that states "hardware kit to mount door on existing track". Make sure to order the correct color, hanger style, and matching kit to the type of track you are adding it on to.
Our inventory of salvaged corrugated metal tin is always changing. We sell all by the square foot. There are various widths from 24-30" wide and note each listing for allowed length ranges in the product description. Some of the product descriptions state how many square feet we consider each sheet. Other ones that have random lengths will be measured according to the the actual size- for example a sheet that is 2' wide and 10' long will be considered 20 square feet towards your total order. You will need to order extra square footage to compensate for waste, how much you overlap the seems, if you sort or discard because you don't like the reclaimed aspect or color combination.
